-
❶白エビの煎餅、シマエビ、ペコロス。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388425 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388425","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388425,"voted_flag":false,"count":2,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388426 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388426","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388426,"voted_flag":false,"count":2,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❷スッポンのジュレ、銀杏のクリーム、ブリオッシュ、クルトン。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388427 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388427","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388427,"voted_flag":false,"count":2,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388428 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388428","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388428,"voted_flag":false,"count":2,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388429 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388429","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388429,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❸カツオ、トランペット茸、蓮根、ヘーゼルナッツを合わせた味噌、焼き茄子を使ったアイスパウダー。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388433 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388433","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388433,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388435 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388435","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388435,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388436 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388436","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388436,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388437 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388437","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388437,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388438 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388438","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388438,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
パン
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388439 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388439","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388439,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❹カマス、インゲン豆、自家製柚子胡椒、黒オリーブオイル。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388441 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388441","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388441,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388442 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388442","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388442,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❺ハマグリ、トリッパ、ジャガイモとブルーチーズのピューレ、素揚げにしたブロッコリー、バジルのソース。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388444 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388444","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388444,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388446 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388446","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388446,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❻白甘鯛の鱗焼き。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388448 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388448","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388448,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388449 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388449","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388449,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388451 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388451","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388451,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388454 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388454","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388454,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❼マツカワガレイ、バターナッツカボチャ、根セロリ、香茸。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388457 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388457","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388457,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388460 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388460","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388460,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388461 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388461","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388461,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❽和梨、アボカド、文旦。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388465 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388465","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388465,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388469 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388469","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388469,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
❾和栗の渋皮煮、和栗のアイス、リオレ、デーツ、マカダミアンナッツ。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388473 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388473","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388473,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388477 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388477","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388477,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
➓ハーブティ、お茶菓子はチョコレート、ほおづき、ほうじ茶。
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388479 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388479","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388479,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388483 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388483","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388483,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388486 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388486","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388486,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388487 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388487","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388487,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388490 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388490","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388490,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388493 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388493","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388493,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388495 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388495","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388495,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388497 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388497","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388497,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388499 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388499","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388499,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388500 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388500","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388500,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388502 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388502","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388502,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388504 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388504","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388504,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388506 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388506","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388506,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388508 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388508","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388508,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388553 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388553","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388553,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388510 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388510","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388510,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388512 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388512","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388512,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388514 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388514","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388514,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388539 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388539","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388539,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388541 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388541","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388541,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388543 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388543","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388543,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388545 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388545","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388545,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
-
{"count_target":".js-result-ReviewImage-219388548 .js-count","target":".js-like-button-ReviewImage-219388548","content_type":"ReviewImage","content_id":219388548,"voted_flag":false,"count":0,"user_status":"","blocked":false}
フレンチ新規訪問153店舗目。
当店の目黒シェフは1985年生まれの38歳で、あの『カンテサンス』を経て2015年に独立。
2016年ミシュラン1星を獲得し、以来8年連続で1つ星をキープしてます。
魚介で有名なモダンフレンチですが、重たいクラシック好きな私の嗜好からは完全に外れており長らく絶対行かないお店リストの筆頭でした(笑)
しかし50を過ぎて魚に目覚め、更に私のフレンチの嗜好も変化してきて今更こちらに興味深々。
と言う事で日曜日のランチにツレと訪問です。
■アクセス
代官山駅が近いかもですが、私は恵比寿駅から歩き10分ほどで到着。
目の前には『レクテ』や、近くには老舗フレンチの『マッシュルーム』もあります。
■店内の様子
店内に入った瞬間、予想以上に薄暗い(笑)
絶賛老眼中の私にはメニューの文字がもう読めない暗さです(笑)
窓は一切なくオサレな雰囲気で、お店の名前にあるように深海がコンセプトでしょうか。
完全なオープンキッチンで、厨房は良く見えます。
火を使う調理は殆ど目黒シェフがやっていたような。
盛り付けには今時らしいピンセットが多用されてました。
スタッフは目黒シェフを含めて男性4人、女性2人の合計6人とソムリエの男性1人と多め。
ほとんど20代?で全員メチャクチャ若いですが、緊張感と熱意に溢れた雰囲気です。
私が通ってるお店が40代〜50代の脂の乗り切ったアクの強いシェフ達が多いので、久しぶりのフレッシュ感(笑)
本日は私含めて5組と個室1組で満席。
■感想
ハードルを下げて臨んだのもありますが、素直に美味しいかったです!
モダンフレンチにありがちなただ食材をぶつけただけの無機質感は無く、考えこまれた味の組み合わせと複雑さ、斬新さと完成度。
そして目黒シェフのオリジナリティとはっきりした方向性、主張があって良かったです!
一方で気になったのはお値段。
肉は一切出てこなくて、このお値段は高めに感じました。
ボリューム的には大食いの私には若干物足りないポーションでしたが、連れのお手伝いをして、更にパンをおかわりしてちょうど良かったです。
本当は恵比寿のラーメン屋さん『綾川』に梯子する計画でしたが諦めて帰りました(笑)
次はカンテサンス系として未訪問の東麻布の『クローニー』かな。
■本日の税込サ別15900円のコース内容は以下の通り。
❶白エビの煎餅、シマエビ、ペコロス。
食べた瞬間、煎餅の食感に驚きます。濡れ煎餅のようなしけた食感でコレは挑戦的。
噛み締める事で白エビの旨味が溢れてきます。
初っ端からカウンターパンチでした。
❷スッポンのジュレ、銀杏のクリーム、ブリオッシュ、クルトン。
ひと口飲んだ瞬間は良くわからないぼやけた印象。
しかし飲み進むうちに何となく理解できる難解なテイスト。
クルトンの油感がいい仕事してるような。
❸カツオ、トランペット茸、蓮根、ヘーゼルナッツを合わせた味噌、焼き茄子を使ったアイスパウダー。
通ってる『シャントレル』に出てきそうなメニューでしたが、味噌が変化球で美味しい。
※パン
黒ニンニクを使ったオリーブオイルをつけて食べるのですが、コレが美味い。
❹カマス、インゲン豆、自家製柚子胡椒、黒オリーブオイル。
本日2番目に刺さったメニュー。
細めのインゲンの食感が良く、更にハーブや黒オリーブオイルなどいろんな味から構成されていて、コレは複雑かつ斬新で美味かったです!
❺ハマグリ、トリッパ、ジャガイモとブルーチーズのピューレ、素揚げにしたブロッコリー、バジルのソース。
本日1番美味かったメニュー。
コレも複雑かつ斬新なテイスト。
かつまとまりのあるベクトルのはっきりしたメニューで素晴らしい。
要は最近、トリッパなら何でも刺さる私(笑)
❻白甘鯛の鱗焼き。
鱗焼きだけでも文句無しに美味い。
更にユリネ、落花生、菱の実、舞茸のスープと一緒に食べると素晴らしいハーモニーで美味しい!
❼マツカワガレイ、バターナッツカボチャ、根セロリ、香茸。
いい線行ってるのですが正直メインとしては、もう一つ味に迫力と今までの流れのような斬新さが欲しかったところ。
❽和梨、アボカド、文旦。
構成は文旦の果汁を使ったパウンドケーキ、蜂蜜のムース、砕いたピスタチオ、フレッシュの和梨、アボカドのクリーム、煎茶のジュレ。
構成要素が多い割にはバラバラ感は無いのですが、逆に化学反応も弱く私はそんなに刺さりませんでしたが、ツレは刺さったとの事で好みの違いでしょうか。
❾和栗の渋皮煮、和栗のアイス、リオレ、デーツ、マカダミアンナッツ。
本日3番目に刺さったメニュー。
リオレ好きにはたまらないメニューで、このリオレがただのリオルじゃなくて色々加えててマジで美味い。
更に栗と食べるとマジで最高でした。
これは傑作。
➓ハーブティ、お茶菓子はチョコレート、ほおづき、ほうじ茶。