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目出鯛
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粕汁
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紅ズワイ蟹
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外観
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エントランス
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床の間
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先付け
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数の子の霙和え
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八寸
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黒豆
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平目の求肥巻き、他
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純米吟醸 松本
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向付け
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水口商店明石鯛
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椀の物
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熱々の粕汁
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取り皿によそって
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焼き物
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鱒の幽庵焼き
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酢の物
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河豚の白子裏ごし餡
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炊き合わせ
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蕪蒸し
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ご飯
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小豆粥
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香の物
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水菓子
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果物
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お部屋
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お箸と和風クロス
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看板
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飲み物１
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飲み物２
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八坂神社手水鉢
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東山福巡り満願成就
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圓徳院庭園
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グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
全国で活躍するレビュアー
飲食店専門の求人サイト
小寒、芹すなわち栄う。洛中は曇天、時折陽が差し込み心なしか暖か。八坂さんに詣でた後は、五十年ぶりに再開した「東山福巡り」の巡礼に歩む。東山界隈を一通り巡った後は祇園に下りて、西花見小路に佇むこちらのお店でお節を頂くことがもう一つのお目当て。暖簾を潜ってお二階の部屋に通して頂く。床の間には福寿の掛け軸と獅子舞が飾られていて新たな年の装いを感じさせてくれる。
お昼はミニ懐石（7260円）をお願いしていた、美しい女将さんが笑顔で迎えてくれて、何か苦手なものはありませんかと親切に尋ねてくれる。飲み物はプレミアムモルツ（1078円/小瓶）をお願いして、まず最初はビールで喉を潤す。しばらくして、お待ちかねの料理が運ばれて来た。
◆「先付け」は、可愛い打ち出の小槌の器に入った数の子の霙和え。数の子とちしゃとうを大根おろしで和えて木の芽を添えた一品。上品な薄味で、ちしゃとうの下処理がしっかり出来ていてシャキシャキとして大根おろしと数の子に良く合う、最後に木の芽がピリッとした舌ざわりで締め括っている。
◆「八寸」は、とても美しいお節。金箔が貼られた木皿は絵馬の形、裏白が引かれ、左側が清水焼の小鉢に金粉が散りばめられた黒豆。右側に素敵な羽子板皿に、前から唐墨、縞々なのは干柿博多、金柑、田作り、平目の求肥巻き、子持ち鮎、菜花、薩摩芋、福豆、結び蒲鉾。黒豆は柔らかくて美味しい、薩摩芋は甘く皮を少しだけ残してとても手が込んでいる、干柿博多はバターの味が絶妙、鮎は小骨を全く感じない程に炊き込まれ上品な味。どれも冷酒で頂きたくなるものばかり、思わず純米吟醸松本（1980円/１合）をお願いする。予想通り唐墨も平目の求肥巻きも松本と良く合う、求肥昆布と平目の合性は絶品。
◆「向付け」は、趣のある焼き物皿に鯛の薄造り。かぼすを絞ってポン酢と薬味で頂く、鯛はびっくりするほど柔らかい、旨味がある優しい味、これが水口商店の日本一の明石鯛なのかと舌鼓を打つ。
◆「椀の物」は、予想と違ってこれまたびっくり、厚手の焼きもの器に熱々の粕汁。具は隠れて見えないが蛤、芹、大根、人参、白味噌を酒粕に混ぜて味を調えている。お洒落な小皿に取り分けて少しずつ頂く。お味は円やかで奥深さがあってとても美味しい、これも絶品。
◆「焼き物」は、鱒の幽庵焼き。揚げた堀川牛蒡が添えられている、鱒は甘みがあって脂がよく乗って美味しい、皮まで頂ける、堀川牛蒡も柔らかな食感で甘みもありとても牛蒡とは思えないふくよかな味。
◆「酢の物」は、紅ズワイ蟹に河豚の白子裏ごし餡掛け。結構な量の紅ズワイ蟹に胡瓜と芋茎が添えられている、蟹は甘みがあって、ぽん酢餡はすっきりした味、白子は円やかさを出していて、とても上品に仕上げた秀逸な作品。
◆「炊き合わせ」は、雪松の趣のある器に入った蕪蒸し。蓋を開けると、ゆり根、柚子生麩、穴子、蕪を卵白でとじて、雪に見立て、えのきと山葵を添えた風流な逸品。正に京都の冬の風物詩、伝統の味、五臓六腑が温まり、山葵がピリッとして良いアクセントになっている。
◆「ご飯」は、小豆粥と香の物。あと少しで小正月、あずのおかいさんを頂いて、邪気を払い、今年一年の無病息災を願う。香の物は大根、刻み柴漬けと梅。
◆「水菓子」は、果物。晩白柚、洋梨と苺、色鮮やか、口もさっぱり美味しく頂く。
全九品、これが祇園川上と言わんばかりの素晴らしい作品ばかり、一品たりとも力を抜いたものは無く、昭和３５年創業、以来代は替われど、親切・センス・鮮度への思いを大切に守る。ホッと出来る女将さんのおもてなしから始まり、料理の美しさはもちろんのこと、器が素晴らしく、秀逸なものばかり、きっと先代の頃から少しずつ集められてきた焼き物と漆器とお見受けする。最後はやはり鮮度、四季折々の旬の最上の食材を、早すぎず遅すぎず、その料理にあった鮮度を絶妙なタイミングで出すチームワーク、祇園割烹ならではのお節をはじめ全ての料理が心震える美しさと美味しさ。今日この瞬間、一期一会に感謝の気持ちで一杯になった、心からご馳走様。次は夏の鱧を頂きに再訪を誓う。