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パルメジャーノサブレとモルタデッラハム
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白子のムニエル ブロッコリーソース
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三陸産真牡蠣網焼きとアオサ・コンソメで炊いたご飯
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大分サワラの焼き物
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栗豚のロースト
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チーズ盛り合せ
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洋梨のリングシューとチョコアイス
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白子のムニエル ブロッコリーソース
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白子のムニエル ブロッコリーソース
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三陸産真牡蠣網焼きとアオサ・コンソメで炊いたご飯
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三陸産真牡蠣網焼きとアオサ・コンソメで炊いたご飯
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大分サワラの焼き物
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栗豚のロースト
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チーズ盛り合せ
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洋梨のリングシューとチョコアイス
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ホットコーヒー
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樹のグラス
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ガス入り水
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フレンチの名店「アピシウス」で修行していた若者二人が
それぞれの道を進み、
再びこの池尻大橋で出会った。
直前まで、
女子が活躍するヤマモトタロヲ 氏の
ビストロ「ウルラ」の店長をしていた、
佐野敏高氏がオーナーソムリエ、
白金高輪駅上のフレンチ、
「ラ クープ ドール」でスーシェフをしていた、
植松裕喜氏がシェフ。
16年6月にオープン。
山手通りと246の脇道が交叉する
変形五差路の真ん中の三角州突端のビル。
1階にラーメン屋があり、その2階。
食べログリクエスト予約で
4,900円のディナーをお願いして行ってきた。
「ラ クープ ドール」にも
ウルラの本店的存在、「アルル」にも
行ったことがあるので、
大きな期待はせずの訪問。
ビルの1階の階段からこだわった装飾がなされ、
階段を上がるごとに佐野氏の思い入れが伝わる。
18時に入ると夜の口開けの客。
右手にカウンター席とキッチン、左手にテーブル席。
一番奥の4人テーブル席に案内される。
BGMはクラシックかと思いきや穏やかなジャズ。
席に着くと、佐野氏が紙おしぼりを破って手渡し。
テーブルにはクロスはなく、ナプキンも紙なので、
カジュアルなお店だと主張。
頼んだ4,900円のコースは
コルンゴルト「ヴァイオリン協奏曲ニ長調」をテーマに構成。
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=whj_cZ_hRFk
1.パルメジャーノサブレとモルタデッラハム
2.白子のムニエル ブロッコリーソース
3.三陸産真牡蠣網焼きとアオサ・コンソメで炊いたご飯
4.大分サワラの焼き物
5.栗豚のロースト
6.洋梨のリングシューとチョコアイス
サービス料は無しで消費税別途。
最初に生グラスビール(800円+税)を2つ頼む。
小ぶりの薄張りグラスで出て来た。
グラスへのこだわりを感じつつ乾杯。
1品目のサブレとハム。
サブレはほのかな塩でサクサク、
美味しく、いいスタートである。
ビールによく合う。
ハムは少し寝かせておいたものと説明。
この後分かるが、
佐野氏は
ワインも食材も
寝かせていいタイミングを図るのがお好きなようである。
ハムも塩が少な目で後から肉のいい味が追いかけてくる。
ガス入りの水(無料)とバゲット(この日は近所のトロパン)が供される。
ワインをどうするか考えたが
この日のメニューは魚介も多いことがあり、
ボトルではなく、佐野氏にペアリングでお願いする。
結果的には佐野氏からのサービスもあり
2人で食後酒を含め11杯で7,700円弱であった。
ワインの好みを伝え、
最初は白子に合わせ、
白を2杯ずつ。
なんと!
飲み物が美味しくなる
奇跡のグラスと云われる「樹のグラス」で出て来た。
http://www.itsuki-oval.com/
ワインはドライでミネラル感があるが、
いずれも味も香りも異なる。
2品目の白子、フワフワの仕上がりで
塩加減がいい。
ブロッコリーソース、燻製サラミの薄いスライス。
3品目は三陸産の真牡蠣を網焼きにし、
アオサとコンソメで硬めに炊いたご飯の上に、
オカヒジキがトッピング。
プリプリの牡蠣、出汁を吸ったご飯といいハーモニー。
その日の温度、室内を流れる空気によっても
ワインの味は微妙に変化するんですよ、
と佐野氏はオーストリア中心の白のグラスを順々に出してくれる。
4品目は8日間熟成させたという大分のサワラ。
岐阜ニンジンなどいくつかの野菜。
サワラの火の通し方がギリギリ。
ソースにつけると
一瞬アニスの香りがした後、
すぐに泡のように消えていく。
魚も美味いし、ここは野菜も美味い。
最近、イタリアンは元よりフレンチ、中華でも
野菜が美味しいかどうかが非常に大事だと気付くようになった。
5品目は豚のロースト。
ここで赤のグラス。
ミネラル感があるが、少し軽め。
豚は赤身の部分と脂身の部分がそれぞれロースト。
キノコ、柿のソテー、安納芋のピューレ。
赤身の方は肌理が細かく、いい塩加減で、肉自体が甘い。
デザートの前に
チーズ盛り合せ(@1,080円)と食後酒をそれぞれお願いする。
3種のチーズ、これも佐野氏が丁寧に世話したもの。
奥のチーズは初めての香りと味わい。
カビをいったん除去してアルコールで洗って寝かせたという。
青カビの臭さは消え、豊潤な香り、ねっとりとした食感。
とっときのグラッパとブランデーの揮発が鼻を抜ける。
デザートは
リングシューに挟んだ洋梨とチョコアイス。
シューは軽く、アイスもあっさり。
お代は2人で22,572円。
ここは、コスパよく美味しい
お勧めのお店である。
途中からBGMはクラシックに変わり、
店内は満席、お二人は目の回るような忙しさだが、
その辛さを微塵も出さずに、素晴らしいサーブ。
店名のカルムは
英語のcalm、
穏やかに、静かにということなのだが、
佐野氏の丁寧さ、こだわり、
また
植松氏の丁寧さ、真摯さ、
によって
「穏やか」が
味もサービスも
「饒舌」という言葉に
昇華されたような気がする。