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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
週末に博多で研究会。オークラにチェックインし、夕食に向かう。博多の夜はもちろん鮨。今回予約したのは大野城駅から徒歩１０分、わかりにくい場所だったので、電話して誘導してもらい、最後は店の人に迎えにきてもらった。菊鮨。食べログではシルバーの有名店だ。エントランスを抜けると小さな途があり、雰囲気がある。
店内はカウンターと個室。しかし基本個室は使われずカウンター１０席のみ。看板はデザイナーが描いた菊鮨をアーチストが鉄で作ったもの。店主は博多の名店高玉で修業し、モナコにあるジョエル・ロブションで鮨職人として働いた。その間モナコのロイヤル・ウエディングで鮨を握った事もあるそうだ。
しかし私が今回この店を選んだ理由は店主が開業当時から２種類のシャリを使い分けていることから。シャリにこだわる鮨屋は絶対美味いというコンセプトで選んだ。ウーロン茶。
まずアテから。
ホタルイカとタイラギとワカメのジュレよせ。器は唐津の隆太窯のもの。
玄界灘のタイ。あえて熟成させずそのままを使っている。出汁醤油に葛でとろみをつけている。
煮帆立とわけぎとるいとう。酢味噌に青唐辛子を加えてあり野菜の瑞々しさが際立つ。
タイの真子の卵とじウニ載せ。ウニは蝦夷馬糞ウニ。
対馬ののどぐろの温かい鮨。
長崎島原のアマダイ。
紅ズワイ蟹と大間のタケノコと菜の花。北九州の大間はタケノコの名産地らしい。
ここから握りへ。
店主が２種類のシャリを自ら作る。左の桶は白酢と赤酢をまぜた旨味とコクを重視したシャリ、おおはたで言うとロゼ。右の桶は赤酢中心でキレを重視したシャリ。２種類のシャリが共に赤酢メインだった事に驚く。
白身は２０kgのクエから。アラと言うことで地元感を出していたが、理解できない客もいた。シャリは旨味とコク重視のロゼ。握り方は本手返し。握りを皿の上に置くとネタが沈む。久しぶりに見る沈む鮨。元麻布の名人、橋口氏以来かも。
１週間熟成させたアオリイカ。想像以上に細かく包丁が入っていてねっとり感と甘みがあり官能的な味。
山口のトリ貝。客の目の前で捌いて出していた。ミネラル感たっぷり。
白アマダイ。
山口の赤貝。これはおおはたで食べているのと同じ。
ここからシャリが切れ重視の赤に。
壱岐のトロの柵漬け。
小肌。
煮蛤。
車エビ。
アジ。
サヨリ。芝エビのおぼろを挟んである。
赤だし。
鹿児島阿久根のムラサキウニ。
玉子。
お茶で終了。
だがここで終わる訳が無く、もちろん追加注文。
壱岐の柵漬けのトロ。おかわり。
唐津の蒸アワビ。低温で４−５時間じっくり蒸したとの由。
そして私の締めと言えばもちろんトロ鉄火。私はトロ鉄火を注文しトロの断面積がシャリの断面積を上回る（面積問題クリア）ようにお願いした。隣に座ってい東京からのお客さんは（客の半数は県外から）、こんな細かい指定での注文は初めて聞いたと驚いていた。出来上がった面積問題完全クリアのトロ鉄火。ありえない美味しさ。キレのある赤酢のシャリが壱岐のトロをしっかりと受け止めている。
大変素晴らしかった。ネタとシャリの芸術的な組み合わせに関して、私はおおはたに匹敵する鮨店はもはや存在しないと思っていたが、世の中は広い。しかもさらに驚いたことにこれで勘定は２万円強。ありえないコスパの良さ。
大変美味しかった。ごちそうさま。また行きたい。