-
タイの塩焼き
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サヨリ刺し身
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なめろう
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キンキ塩焼き
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-
鍋ごとマコガレイ
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甘鯛塩焼き
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キンキ煮付け
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マグロ脳天炙り
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とり貝
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刺し盛り
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-
小ざさの羊羹（サービス）
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スルメイカ煮付け
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タケノコ土佐煮
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-
桜えびかき揚げ
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エンガワ刺し身
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鯛子と白子とうどん煮付け
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タイの煮付け
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-
牛の骨髄
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-
本マグロ目玉
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生さば（〆てない）
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-
スズキ刺し
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鯛ワタと鯛刺し
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-
刺し盛り
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-
じゃがいも筋子
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-
クジラのベーコン
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-
サザエ
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-
山かけ
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ホタテの酒蒸し
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-
ホタルイカ
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-
おでん
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自家製キムチ牡蠣鍋
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ニシンメス数の子持ち（手前）とニシンオス白子持ち（奥）
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-
牡蠣の味噌汁
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-
ドリアン
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-
霜降りステーキ
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-
穴子白焼き
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-
巨大マダラ
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-
サバの塩焼き
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-
トントロ
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-
マグロ中落ち
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-
超特大ホッケ塩焼き
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-
トースト塩辛のせ
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-
銀ダラの粕漬け
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金目鯛とエンガワの刺身
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炙りエンガワ（激レア）
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-
ヤナギカレイ
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-
真タラの粕漬け
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-
イカの活造り（まだ動いている）
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-
ギンナン（酒と塩をつけて食べる）
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ラームプー（タイ料理の豚ひき肉サラダ）
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-
カワハギ肝付き
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-
刺盛
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-
肉しゅうまい
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-
栗
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-
もずく酢
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-
刺盛
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-
ハモ焼き
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-
明太子
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-
あん肝
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-
白魚
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-
蒸しあさり
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-
イカ焼き
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-
豚のタンした
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-
タイ風蒸し魚
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-
貝の焼き
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-
タラの白子焼き
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-
鯛の白子焼き
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-
ヒラメのムニエル
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キンキのごった煮味噌汁
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-
鶏のもも焼き
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-
豚足の煮こごり
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-
ミョウガときゅうり
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-
毛ガニ
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-
マグロの炙り
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-
タカベの塩焼き
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-
刺盛
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-
閉店間近の総決算ごった煮味噌汁
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-
キンメダイの味噌汁
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-
稚鮎
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-
蒸し岩牡蠣
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-
キンキの煮付け
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-
ラッキーヱビス（普通のヱビスと違って魚篭に鯛が２匹）
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-
タコの吸盤刺し
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-
豚足
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-
焼き牡蠣
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-
サンマ
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-
キンキ煮付け
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-
鮎の塩焼き
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-
キンキ塩焼き
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-
大トロ
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里芋とイカの塩辛
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冷奴
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栃尾の油揚げ
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小籠包
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赤むつ
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戻りガツオ
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クジラ刺し
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つぶ貝
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豚タン
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クリガニ
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ポクポクライフ（http://pokkuri.jp/）で記録してますが、
ここ15年くらい吉祥寺の飲食店を何百軒も飲み歩いてきましたけど、
僕の中で『ささの葉』は間違いなく吉祥寺で一番旨い店です。
「酒飲みとしては」という前提は入りますけれどもね。
わりと、食べログ、というかメディアに出ることが嫌いなんじゃないかと思うマスターから
「食べログにレビュー書きたいなら別に書いても良いよ」って言われたので書いてみます。
まあホントは、マスターはこういうところに書かれるのはイヤなのかもしれないけど、
僕だってこんなすごい店があったら
人情として、「こんなすごい店があるぞ！」って言いたくなるってもんです。
もう、僕がこの店から学んだことの多さは計り知れません。
「酒が素晴らしいのは、実は、酒のおかげじゃなくて人のおかげである」
ということを教えてくれたのはこのお店です。
僕が言うのはおこがましいことを知りつつ書きますが、
いつも飄々としたマスターはすごく勉強熱心で、
勉強熱心がゆえに自分が勉強してることなどおくびにも出さないほど端厳としており「粋」です。
このマスターがいてこその『ささの葉』です。
「この若造、何を好き勝手なこと言うんだ」と怒られるかもしれませんが、
このお店は、時にズカズカ入って来ようとする一見のお客さんに対して厳しいこともあります。
僕もわりと無神経でヘラヘラしながら店に入ろうとするようなところがあるので、
マスターに顔を覚えられてない初期の頃はニ度ほど門前払いを喰らいました。
また、若い人がこの店に入ってくる時にマスターから冷たくあしらわれているのをよく目撃します。
「せっかく若い層が来てるのに追い返すのもったいなくないですか？」って聞いたら、
要するに「食べない客」はあんまり歓迎してないようです。
とはいっても、何だかんだでマスターはすっごい優しくてそんなに厳しくないので、
どんどんマスターの懐に入っていくべきだと思います。
マスターも新しいお客さんは間違いなく大好きでウェルカムなはずです。
もちろん、『ささの葉』に限らず、居酒屋で飲む側が採るべき立ち振舞いとして、
「つまみを注文しないで飲むだけ」ってのが野暮、というのは前提としてありますし、
自信とプライドを持って旨いものを出してる立場からすれば、
よく食べるお客さんは特に歓迎っていうのは当たり前の話だと思います。
『ささの葉』の店内には明文化されたメニューはひとつもありません。
あえて言えば、ここのメニューは「その日仕入れた旬の素材の現物」です。
ショーケースに美味そうなものが並んでますから、それを注文すればいい。
ショーケースに入ってるものが何か分からなくても、
「これは何ですか？どこの産地ですか？」なんてことを聞けば、マスターはゴキゲンで教えてくれます。
「旬」を追うお店なので季節によって、というより、日によって出てくるものが全然違うのですが、
逆に言うと、「その時期一番旨いもの」だけが食べられます。
『ささの葉』で特に美味しいのは、最も「旬の力」がモノを言う魚です。
刺身の盛り合わせは鉄板中の鉄板ですが、焼き魚や煮魚も抜群に旨いです。
写真の雰囲気である程度伝わると思いますが、全ての料理が豪快です。
全般的に量がハンパない。
ネギとかミョウガとか大根おろしとかそういう脇役の添え物が普通の店の３倍～５倍は盛られます。
例えば、３人で行って「サンマ下さい」っていうとサンマは３尾出てきます。
３人で１尾のサンマをつつくようなチマチマしたことはさせてくれない。
あるいは、３人で行って鮎を注文したら、なぜか鮎が４尾とか出てきたことがありますからね。
そういう「豪快力」では、常識の天井を打ち破っている気がします。
だからもう、僕はこの店で魚を注文する時は数は言わない。
いまじゃ、「赤むつ下さい」とか「イワシ下さい」とか魚の名前だけ指定して注文するようになりました。
量はマスターに任せます。
さて、「メニューがない」ということは、
要するに「会計が心配」ということに直結しますが、端的に言って高くないです。
何十回行っても会計の仕組みが分からないのですが、いつもすごく安くしてもらってる気がします。
そこは一番信頼関係がモノをいうところでもありますし、
当然にマスターも一番気を遣っている部分なんじゃないかと思いますので大丈夫です。
そして、ミーハーな話、このお店、Y田類さんがプライベートで来てます。
僕が知るかぎり２ヶ月間で３回来てました。
毎日毎日、あんなに仕事で全国の居酒屋を駆けまわってる人がプライベートで来る店ってのがすごいと思う。
あと、昭和系の居酒屋関係の雑誌を出してる編集長も来てました。
要するにそういう店です。
「Hanako」「OZ magazine」「吉祥寺ぴあ」などは、
毎年、吉祥寺特集を組んで、千変万化して移り変わる飲食店を紹介していますが、
掲載される店のほとんどが、
「ブランド化された吉祥寺」「洗練された吉祥寺」「表向きの吉祥寺」というイメージに寄りがちです。
それはそれで対外的なアピールも担える吉祥寺の長点ですが、
この手の吉祥寺の雑誌が特集するようなオシャレな要素とはまた逆ベクトルの
ディープな、いや、ネイティブな吉祥寺らしさを背負う店が『ささの葉』です。
「ガチンコの居酒屋」とでも言えばいいでしょうか。
ハモニカ横丁は戦後の闇市を嘘偽りなく真正面から引き継いだ商店街ですから
昨今よく目にする昭和回顧主義に則ったようなマガイモノの昭和感とは無縁です。ガチ昭和です。
現在の消防法に照らし合わせれば完全にアウトですが、
ギッシリひしめき合って並ぶ木造建物の２階（屋根裏）が
かつては「ちょんの間（ちょっとの間でことを済ます簡易売春施設）」
だった場所として、デフォルトで現存している。
かつて、「赤線だ青線だ」言ってた時代の残り香が確かにここに存在しているのです。
闇市というのは、ザックバランに言うと、「欲望＞法律」のアウトローゾーンでしょう。
昭和じゃ死ぬほど当たり前だった世界観ですが、
法律が欲望以上に社会のコアを牛耳る現在となっては、
こんなに嘘をつかない場所は、どこにも存在し得ないのかもしれません。
酒にしても売春にしても、
ハモニカ横丁は戦後のカオスを必死に生き抜こうとした大衆の真正直な欲望が
エネルギッシュに名残りを見せる、陰影に富む場所です。
平和ボケよろしく、悠長に「住みたい街ナンバーワン」とか言ってられないくらい
生きるか死ぬかを賭した、泥々して殺伐とした時代の吉祥寺の名残りが顕現している。
吉祥寺ってのは街としてここから始まっているのですから、
まさにここが「吉祥寺」という概念の真髄なり心臓部だと僕は思うのです。
そういう意味で、この空間の中にあり続ける『ささの葉』は、やはり、「ガチンコの居酒屋」なのです。
吉祥寺のハモニカ横丁では、
シャッター度が抜群に高い「のれん小路」のどんづまりの場所に位置するお店なので、
もしかしたら、ハードルが高く感じられて入りづらいかもしれません。
ただ、もう一度言いますけど、
「ここより旨い店が吉祥寺にあったら教えてもらいたい」
というくらい、ここが吉祥寺で一番旨い店です。
ハモニカ横丁で道が袋小路になっているのは、
「仲見世通り」「中央通り」「朝日通り」「のれん小路」「祥和会通り」の中で「のれん小路」だけ。
その独特のどんづまり感は、まさに「異次元への扉」のような趣きがあります。
言うなれば、『ささの葉』は「吉祥寺の終着点」。
もっと言えば、「世界の果て」のような幽寂さをその佇まいに感じさせるのです。
さて、マスターは僕のことをよく知っていてくれます。
どうしても『ささの葉』に入りにくかったら、
取っ掛かりとしてマスターに「ポックリボーイのサイト（レビュー）を見てきた」って言ってみて下さい。
多分、無視されます。
「ささの葉」についての音声レビューはこちらです。
http://www.voiceblog.jp/pokkuriboy/2031668.html