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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
2022年8月開業にも関わらず早くも予約困難となった鮨割烹の席が取れたというお誘いにあやかり、二つ返事で食べ友さんと伺いました。予約は17時30分か20時の席のみ、メニューはお任せのコースのみなのです。場所は東中野駅東口から徒歩2分、ビルの2階にあり看板は出ていませんが、階段の入り口に行灯があるので最初はよく見ないと行き過ぎるかもしれません。階段を上がると白木の店名のみの表札と引き戸があり、隠れ家感があります(^ ^)
店内は紺色の壁で落ち着いた雰囲気、8席のみのL字型カウンター席は大変ゆったりとしたもので、大将の温かいお出迎えでこれからのひとときに期待が高まります。
いただく 鮨くにみつコース15400円 は握りがメインの20品、内容は季節によって変わり、食事後は奥にある小部屋のテーブル席でデザートやお茶を楽しめるとのことです。
ペアリングオプションもありますが、今宵は大将のおすすめの日本酒縛りで行くことにしました。前に置かれたのはLIDDELLの純米グラス、初めてみましたが大変美しいシェイプのグラフです。最初は滋賀のひっぱりだこ純米吟醸生、清涼感のあるテイストでスターターに相応しいお酒です。
最初の料理は白エビの握り、静岡の山のいぶきの茶葉と塩で2時間前にミルで引いて締めた白エビが薄緑の織物のように美しく輝き、エビの香りとねっとりした舌触りの素晴らしい絡み合いで驚愕の始まりでした。次は春蒸し、富山のホタルイカ、芽キャベツ、白魚の蒸し物です。和紙の蓋を開けるとフワッと香りがたちのぼり春の先取りです。次は青森あいなめの握り、4日寝かせたもので塩と柚子でいただきます。旨み凝縮で歯触りよしの逸品です。ここでこちらのスペシャリテともいうべきブリフィーユ、1週間寝かせた高知のブリに酢漬けの大根を挟み込みミルフィーユ状になった握りです。脂が多いので酸味で乳化させてマイルドなることを狙っての作品は身震いするくらい美味しい‼︎
ここでお酒が栃木の仙禽に変わり、次の八潮鱒の握りの産地と近く相性の良さがあるとのこと、計算されたセンスの良さが光ります。八潮鱒は水流で育てるので筋肉質な鱒でオリーブオイルを餌に混ぜて育てるそう、それを3日間寝かせていて濃厚な香りとテイストになります。脂の乗った身は最後に鱒独特の香りが残るのですね。次は名付けてトリプルスプリングロール、サワラ、蓮根、春菊の味噌で3春なのだそう、メクワイの素揚げが添えられています。春巻きに味噌をつけ、サワラの香りと春菊の香りで春いっぱい(^ ^) ここでトロとエシャロットの巻物、エシャトロ巻きです。辛みを取るためにエシャロットを醤油漬けにしたおつまみ感覚の新感覚の巻物、大将は醤油漬けなので色が地味で映えない、と笑っていました(^｡^) セオリー通りなら光り物の位置に、敢えて淡路のカスゴダイの握りです。小さくても鯛の香りは流石で、大将曰く「天才子役」だそう⁈
次の日本酒は甘口なのにスッキリな高知の亀泉です。ここから合わせる握りは低温調理で焼きを入れてある苫小牧のホッキ貝、こんなにジューシーなホッキ貝は初めてです。次は佐渡のメジマグロの刺身、塩で叩き、敢えて血合いも使っているのに、大粒の結晶塩でクリアでマイルドなテイストがgood‼︎ 次は先程まで生きていた大分の車海老の握り、4分間のスチームで身がふんわりし海老の甘味が素晴らしい握りです。インドマグロのサク漬けの握りはサク
を湯霜で皮膜を作って漬けるのでマイルド、芥子でいただくのも斬新です。
ここから高級食材が続きます。根室の馬糞ウニは敢えて握りでいただきます。新鮮なウニでないと形ができない握りは技と素材の良さに驚き、海苔の味がないピュアなウニの味が楽しめました。ノドグロの小丼は行者ニンニク味噌が添えられ、つぶしてご飯と合わせるのです。脂の乗ったノドグロだからこそニンニク味噌に負けない風味を発揮、塩焼きのノドグロとは異なる次元の美味しさを実感しました。握りのトリは大船渡の煮牡蠣、牡蠣を煮詰めたツメダレは自家製オイスターソースとも言える濃厚な風味で加熱することで凝縮する牡蠣の旨みがさらに倍増でした。
能登の新もずくのお椀の後、〆は塩かっぱ巻きと冷茶です。手摘みの大棟の茶はキロ単価10万円という高額なものですが、まるで出汁のような旨味凝縮のお茶できゅうりと冷茶でスッと清涼感を感じる〆となりました。
デザートは小部屋に移動し、生プリン、二色寒天、茶葉を使ったパウンドケーキの盛り合わせ、水出しの温かいほうじ茶がクリアで香り豊かで、至福の時を過ごしました。
細部まで計算された料理だけでなく、器や装飾は小瀬戸焼や織部焼の作家のものを使い、随所にこだわりを見せてくれた大将の阿部国充さんは18歳から鮨一筋、海外経験も積まれていて、次世代の鮨を背負っていただける方に出会えました。