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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
私が「野毛のおにかい」に行ったことを知っている友人から、「おにかい」系列の人気天麩羅店の予約が取れたから行かないか?という、激烈魅力のあるお誘いを受け、これは何がなんでも行かねばなりません。 二つ返事で同行させていただくことになりました。いゃ〜、楽しみです(^ ^)
現地に着くと、そこにあるのはやや歴史を感じる普通の民家なのです。郵便ポストに「みやしろ」と書いてあるだけ、ちなみにその壁面の端には「おにかい」と書いた小さな札が貼ってあるのみで、おにかい本店の1階がこちらになります。ガラスの入った扉は室内の光もなく真っ暗ですが、時間になりドアを開けると、さらに奥の扉のところでスタッフのお出迎えがあり、建物の外観からは想像できない温かみのあるフロアが広がっていました。席は全てカウンター、全8席ですがゆったりとしたテーブルと椅子の間隔なので大変居心地の良い空間になっています。
夜は25300円のコース1種類のみ、ドリンクはグラス、ボトルもありますが、ワインや日本酒のペアリングもできるとのことで、ペアリングコース(アルコール) 7000円 にしました。ノンアルペアリングも4000円で用意されているのも素晴らしい‼︎
ドリンクはシャンパンで始まりました。先付は百合根の饅頭、百合根に白玉粉を合わせた蒸し物に餡がかかった優しい味わいの春らしいスターターです。次はほんのわずかに油通しをして殻をむいた車海老、串で手渡されます。ほんのり赤い海老に泡醤油、キャビア、山葵が添えられ、海老の甘味が薬味で引き立ちます。油通しは海老の色を引き出すためとのことですが、ねっとりする口触りも油通しならではかもしれません。
ここから天麩羅が始まります。席には予め自家製の塩、天汁、おろし、酢橘がセットされているのでお好みで使います。まずは車海老、私は塩でいただきました。この自家製の塩があまりにも美味しくて、なぜ塩にこんな旨味があるのかを伺ったところ、岩塩を昆布などの出汁で溶かして若干の甘味を加えて塩味の角を取り、再精製しているとのこと、どうりで旨みと甘味が超絶なバランスの良さで、ずっと舐め続けたくなる塩なのです。このままでは天汁の出番がなくなるかも?と大将にどれを天汁でいただくのが良いか伺ったら、おろしに少し天汁をかけてお口直しのように食べながら天麩羅は塩で行くのが大将流だそう、妙に納得できる食べ方でしたので、真似をすることにしましたσ(^_^;)次は名物海老天海苔巻き、タレが美味しいのですが厚みのある海苔との組み合わせも秀逸‼︎ 添えられた海老の顎脚の素揚げも良いおつまみです。そしてタラの芽、春を告げる山菜は色鮮やかで美味‼︎
ここで名物の鮑のしゃぶしゃぶです。ぐつぐつ煮えたった肝ソースのスープに鮑を入れ30秒でレア、60秒で固めですが、私は味が凝縮する固め派かな?最後に一口大のご飯の天麩羅を投入しリゾット風にしますが、すかさずカウンター越しから禁断のバフンウニ乗せで鮑の肝とウニのハーモニー、これは人間をダメにするヤツ間違いなし‼︎
再び天麩羅に戻って蕗のとう、顎は塩で、香りの強い芯はおろしと天汁でいただきます。続く琵琶湖のハゼは旨みが炸裂、次は趣向を変えて自家製カラスミを挟んだ揚げ餅、軽い食感にカラスミの塩味が良い感じ。そして長崎県小長井の牡蠣の天麩羅は海苔巻きスタイルで。紐から食べて食感を楽しみ、最後に肝の部分でクリーミーかつ磯の香りを堪能するのです。牡蠣1つなのに食べ方でこんなに変化に富んだ味になるのは目から鱗でした。
薄く衣をつけてカリッと揚げた金時さつまいもはそのままでも美味しいのですが、酢橘をかけるとケーキのような風味になるのですね。甘味の後はトラフグの白子炭火焼き、天麩羅と炭火を両方備えているのですね。ねっとりした白子は堪能的なテイストです。
最終の天麩羅は栃木の椎茸、千葉県香取の醤油が吹き付けられていて永遠に食べられる旨味と味‼︎ 次は名物のシャトーブリアン、胡椒を2粒噛んでから岩塩でいただけば肉の旨味が口の中で迸ります。続いて贅沢の極みの海苔の天ぷら、勝浦の鮪が載ってどちらも主役をはれますが確実に海苔天が主役、最後の瞬間に立ち昇る海苔の香りが最高です。お口直し的に極太のアスパラ、穂先からいただき、茎はその間に余熱で加熱という時間差を計算し尽くされた食べ方で。最後は1週間熟成させた千葉県富津のキス、酢橘と塩でキリッと〆ました。
食事は赤出汁と芝海老、帆立のかき揚げを崩して混ぜ込んだトマトの炊き込みご飯、リコピン酸、イノシン酸の旨みの輻輳にノックアウトでした。
水菓子は自家製塩羊羹、お薄と共に最後の余韻を楽しみながらお開きとなりました。
先付から水菓子まで一寸の隙もない仕事ぶり、食べ方も知らず知らずのうちに大将の計算通りになっている自分に気づいた時は、あまりの完璧なアレンジメントとマネジメントに戦慄しました。今まで色々な懐石をいただきましたが、こちらはおそらく私の中で天麩羅の概念を覆すお店になったと思います。