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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
隠れ家的鮨割烹が神楽坂にオープンしたので行ってみないかという嬉しいお誘いがあり、鮨ラバーの友人にアレンジしていただきました。神楽坂の坂の中間に新しくできた飲食店ビルの4階にあり、ビルの外にも看板が出ており、「かぐら」の字が洒落ています。エレベーターで上がると陶器の表札のみのエントランスがあり、出迎えの後、奥のカウンター席に案内されました。
こちらのお品書きは店名を冠したかぐら鮨コースのみ、このコースをベースにドリンクのペアリングがセットになったものがあります。ドリンクペアリングはノンアルコール仕様もあり、この選択肢は嬉しいですね。私たちが予約したのはワインや日本酒のペアリングができる かぐら鮨コース＋かぐらペアリングコース5種27000円 です。握り13貫、一品料理4品、玉、お椀、デザートの計20品以上＋アルコールペアリング5種という内容です。
最初のペアリングドリンクはフェラーリのスパークリング、シャルドネです。車のフェラーリよりも歴史が古い名門の一端を担うブランドです。スッキリとした飲み口のスパークリングに合わせるのは、スターター3種です。一品目はいかそううめんのウニソース、二品目は北海道産キンキのしゃぶしゃぶ、三品目は鱧真薯 松茸挟み揚げでした。長崎アオリイカのいかそうめんをバフンウニと共にいただくもの、減塩キャビアと熊笹のエキスで摂取塩分と免疫向上に配慮したヘルスコンシャスなスタートでした。キンキのしゃぶしゃぶは神奈川産のカブが添えられ、柚子胡椒を隠し味に使った出汁はあまりにも美味しく完飲σ(^_^;)鱧の真薯は菊芋をツナギにした真薯を松茸で挟み、カラッと揚がる米粉で天麩羅にしたものをカラスミの塩味でいただく、贅沢極まりない一品です。
鮨に移る前にドリンクはシャブリに変わりました。ヨード香で鮨を邪魔しないというチョイスでミネラル香が素晴らしいものです。まず箸休めの昆布佃煮とガリが出されます。昆布は出汁の後の昆布から作ったものですが、ふっくらしていてこれはすごい‼︎
握りは鹿児島産ヒラメの昆布締めで昆布の旨み炸裂、むっちりとした歯触りは最高です。シャリは富山の大粒のコシヒカリ、赤酢2種、米酢、黒須のブレンド酢の酢飯はほのかな色でネタの存在を邪魔しません。脂がのった千葉房総のブリは大根おろし添えで消化にも良いとのこと、ブリは口の中でとろけ、その後の千葉産サワラの炙りは温度を上げているので甘みを感じました。
ここでお酒は鍋島に変わり日本酒モードです。大間鮪の赤身は鉄分の濃い部位なのに臭みはいっさいなく、濃厚な赤身の肉々しい食感を楽しみます。鮪はあらかじめ煮切りを塗って味を落ち着かせていました。大間の中トロは脂のノリをうまく馴染ませていて、赤身共々技が光ります。日本酒との最後の鮨は鯖の棒寿司の手巻き、大葉とガリを挟み込んだ長崎産鯖の棒寿司を有明の初海苔で包む異次元の棒寿司でした。
次の料理に合わせてお酒は飛騨のどぶろくとみかんのオリジナルカクテルです。北海道秋鮭とすじこの朴葉焼きです。素揚げの舞茸が添えられ西京味噌と卵黄のグラタン風は濃厚な旨みが凝縮された和食の粋を体現していました。刺身は宮城産赤貝の紐、シャキシャキとした食感で鉄分が旨みとなります。続いて赤貝の握り、香りよしの赤貝はシャキシャキだけでなくプリプリ感もあり、ヒモの刺身とは異なる食感が楽しめました。兵庫産イワシはメネギと生姜の薬味でとろける脂の風味が際立ち、シソの花が散らされた美しい一品です。
この後の大トロに合わせてイタリアのアマローネ、干し葡萄から作る赤ワインです。2度くらい温度が上がった時に大トロの余韻の時に飲むのが良いということで楽しみ‼︎まずは千葉産キンメの漬け、柚子を効かせているので爽やかな風味が旨みとマッチします。そして大トロは脂がなさそうに見えてしっかりのっている背側を使ったもの、身の味ととろける舌触りも楽しめる鮪好きにはたまらない一貫です。大分産車海老は茹でたてで香りが立つ逸品、対馬の穴子は脂が逃げない程度に炊いた煮穴子でふわふわトロトロです‼︎
椀ものはシジミと青さ海苔のお吸い物、耐熱シートで調理されじっくりと温められて磯の香りを閉じ込めた感じです。最後はトロタク巻きウニ乗せの贅沢な巻物、甘味のある海苔に変えているというきめの細かい仕事には脱帽です。玉は静岡の釜揚げしらすの玉子焼き、天美卵を使ったコクのある〆に相応しい玉でした。
デザートワインはロワール地方の貴腐ワインと共に2種の西京白味噌のりんごタルト、りんごは信濃ゴールドの高い糖度を活かして自然な甘味、豆腐と胡麻ペーストのクリーム仕立てでシナモンの香りが良いアクセントになっています。モリンガの粉末が入った静岡の深蒸し茶ですっきりとリセットされ、至福のひと時が終わりました。
2022年7月にオープンしたばかりですが、予約は取りづらくなっているようです。鮨店で常時ソムリエがいるだけでも珍しいのですが、ペアリングのお酒はワインだけでなく幅広いセレクションで意表を突かれるマリアージュに驚かされっぱなしで、全ての料理と飲み物にストーリーと必然性が体現されたペアリングコースは、他ではなかなか出会えない体験でした。目が離せない名店の誕生かもしれません。