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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
大阪市北区曽根崎新地にある2階建ビルのフレンチイノベーティブレストラン「NH」
東京の超グルメな知り合いが、絶対に気にいると思うからと予約して誘ってくださったお店に期待を膨らませて訪問してきました。
お薦め戴いた理由は写真を観ていただくと一目瞭然で、まずお店の空間美が素晴らしい設計で度肝を抜かれる。そして、料理も発酵食材や熟成技術を取り入れた丁寧で繊細な料理の技を持ってもてなされるイノベーティブフレンチの美味しさにココロ鷲掴みにされた。
それでは異彩放つ「NH」の世界観を垣間見て戴きたい。
アーチ状のアプローチを進み重厚感ある扉の前でインターフォンを押して扉を開けてもらう、高級店ならではの出迎え方。扉が開いてすぐに設置されたウェイティングルームで京都の和紅茶を戴きながら食事の時間まで少し待つ。
ウェイティングルームの調度品はソファーやコースター、そしてレストランフロアーの2階へ向かう扉までもがHermesで統一された豪華な空間。
階段を上がってレストランフロアへ向かうと想像以上の空間に衝撃を受ける。壁面から天井までが紫色の空間に近未来的な宇宙船にでも連れてこられたようなインパクト。
先鋭的でかつ洗練された空間美にまずは圧倒される。両サイドの壁には生きた苔が植え付けれれており青々とした苔の色が紫色の壁面との対比が印象的。
【本日のコース】
●Crabe
毛蟹・渡り蟹の2種を解し、蟹身・根セロリ・林檎などと組み合わせて味わいと歯触りの良い食感を愉しめる逸品。
毛蟹の下にはブッラータ・チーズのストラッチャテッラを添えて、上部の蟹身と混ぜ合わせてフレッシュなクリーミーさを加える事で奥行きの拡がりが楽しめる。
半分食べたところで発酵トマトのエキスとバジルオイルを回し掛けて、トマトとチーズの組み合わせでカプレーゼ風味に味変が愉しめる。トマトの酸味が蟹酢に近いさっぱりした味に変わるのが愉しい。
●Piment rouge
パプリカを練り込んだチュイール生地で舟形の器を造り、白海老をたっぷり載せてフィンガーフードに仕上げた逸品。白海老の上には発酵させたパプリカピューレ:ピペラードとナスタチウム(お花)が味と薫りのアクセントとして活躍。ピリッと辛い刺激的な味は唐辛子が使われている。
●Foie-gras
フォアグラフランの上に発酵させたさくらんぼから創るグリオットと穂紫蘇を掛けて、甘酸っぱくて爽やかな味で蓋した一品。濃厚なフォアグラの茶碗蒸しのように滑らかな舌触りに、さくらんぼの甘酸っぱいフルーティーさが爽やかな味。
タルト生地に熟成梅酒でマリネしたフォアグラのテリーヌ、ドライフルーツとナッツのペースト、ハイビスカスのジュレシートを重ね、生黒胡椒を一粒飾った焼き菓子のような一品。フォアグラも料理と素材の組み合わせにより味の感じ方や美味しさが違い面白い食べ比べ。
●Caviar d'Or et d'argent
オリジナルパッケージに入ったトップランクの高級キャビアを食べ比べ。
金色:KALUGA CAVIARは川の王様
銀色:BELUGA CAVIARは海の王様
きたうち牧場(石垣島)のプレミアムビーフで牛肉のタルタルをグラスに敷いて、牛肉のコンソメジュレ、生雲丹、金と銀の2種類のキャビア、じゃがいもと葱のエスプーマを添えてパリソワール風の一品。
牛肉のタルタルと雲丹の相性、雲丹とキャビアのマリアージュ、そして、エスプーマが組み合わさった時の変化など食べ進むとどんどん進化する味が愉しい一品。キャビアも海と川の王様ではコク深い濃厚さ、塩味などの違いもわかる。ひとくちスプーンで戴くキャビアが非常に贅沢な食べ方。
●Pain de lodeve
酒粕と穀物を併せて薫りと食感を持たせた熱々のハード系のパンは、外側がカリカリで中ふわふわの焼き上がり。ホイップさせたカルピスバターを塗り、穀物と酒粕の芳ばしい薫りにカルピスバターの柔らかいコクが混じりかなりの美味しさでお代わりしてしまった。
●Fruits de mer
熟成されたあこう鯛を5つの味で戴く食べ比べ。
〈五味〉(旨/酸/塩/苦/甘)
旨:熟成期間が一番長いあこう鯛にホタテのガルム(自家製魚醤)を塗り、素材本来の旨みを感じる仕上げ方。
酸:ババロア状のベルガモットソースで柑橘系の酸味を味わうカルパッチョのような味わい。
塩:唐墨を挟み込んで塩系を味わう珍味タイプの味わい。
苦:皮面を炙った切身にゴーヤ、ブレザオラを添えた苦味のアクセントを楽しむ味わい。
甘:発酵させたブルーベリーエキスで果実の甘みを愉しむ
●Tourtue
エノキ薫るフラン、スッポンの血を使って蛋白質の不純物を取り除いたコンソメスープをかけた逸品。フォアグラのフランとは食感も風味も全く違った味わいでさっぱりしながら上にかけられたスープが濃厚。
スッポン、比内地鶏、フォアグラ、トリュフ、鮎等の食材をミンチ状にして椎茸(三重県産)に包んで焼き上げた串焼き。胡桃などの芳ばしい風味付けもされた高級なフレンチつくね。
●Asperges
日本で一番美味しいとグリーンアスパラ称され料理人の間ではハセパラと呼ばれている、北海道・ジェットファームの長谷川さんが作ったアスパラをグリル。
黒鮑(北海道産)に「鮑の肝、ピスタチオ、玉露」をソースにして回しかけた一皿。黒鮑は大振りなのに柔らかくナイフでスッと切り分けられ、肝ソースが非常に鮑の味をぐんと旨みを際立たせてくれる。
●Homard breton
殻が青色で最高級ランクのオマール海老に、甘口ワインのソーテルヌ、パッションフルーツ、新生姜をソースに仕立て、夏みかん、ピメンデフペレット、ディルの花を添えて爽やかな味わいのオマール海老に仕立てた逸品。ぷりぷりの弾力あるオマール海老に柑橘系の味わいが意外とよく合う。
●Croise
NHのメインは七谷鴨の七谷クロワゼ ソースサルミ1種のみ。鴨はシェフが自ら餌をオリジナルレシピで造り、農場にお願いして育てる徹底ぶり。
3週間熟成された鴨肉はもも肉とむね肉をそれぞれ違う調理法で味わいます。炭火焼きの芳ばしい薫りやレバーの風味も味わい深く、鴨好きには堪らないメイン料理。
●Meron
京都・伏見の藤岡酒造の蒼空(純米大吟醸)とデザートの組み合わせ。
シチリアメロン100%のアイスクリーム。
皿の下には蒼空、酒粕を使ったアングレーズソースが敷かれてメロンアイスの風味を際立たせている。小豆島のオリーブオイルとゲランドプラムネージュを振りかけて風味付けのアクセントとしている。
Amane muskmelon
天使からの贈り物と言う意味を込めたマスクメロン。
究極のマスクメロンをシャーベットにして、カットメロンも添えた超高級デザート。ズバ抜けた美味しさでメロンの美味しさを再確認した一品。
●Mangue
ガトーバナーヌ、パッソワリキュールのムース、フレッシュマンゴー(玉文)、ジュレシート、ココナッツミルクのエスプーマが重なり合ったデザート。上にはマリーゴールドが華咲く美しいデザート。バナナの風味とマンゴーの酸味が印象深い味わい。
●Mignardises
お茶菓子、カヌレボルドー、フリーズドゥメール、プラリネ
● café au thé
ブラジル産ベースの中深煎り Coffee Base KANONDO
お店に入った瞬間〜帰るまでの全ての時間、驚き・感嘆・感動、様々な感情が入り混じる凄い体験をした気がする。かなり印象に残るレストランで既にもうリピートしたい気持ちが湧き出してきている。
ふらっと行ける値段ではない高級なフレンチレストラン。
それでもまた行きたくなる魅惑の秘密基地。
ご馳走様でした‼︎‼︎
それではまた次回まで「ご機嫌好う♪」