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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
<20231215>
供されたラカン産 鳩のローストが絶妙で
ラカンとは地域名で
トゥールのやや北に位置する
ラカン産の鳩 家禽である
ジビエではない
風味に優れる「ドゥ・ペイ」種
それに子孫を多々産む「ウベル」種
この掛け合わせがラカン産の鳩
風味はとても繊細だが旨味は複雑
「雉」より旨味が強いように思う
頂くなら今である ぜひに！である
仏レストランでは姿を消した「グジェール」
懐かしくて涙が出でそうだ
＜20230702＞
洗練軸を突き進む山田シェフ
日曜のブランチを楽しむ
リーズナブルではなく安価である
＜20201102＞
もう15年も経つのかと・・・白トリュフのフェアに招かれ
アルバ産トリュフがのるフォアグラフラン
オマール海老季節野菜サラダをバーニャカウダ風味で
生セップ茸とカボチャのニョッキ
茄子と鰯のシャルロット詰め／バルサミコ酢とルイユとタプナードで
鳩のローストとジロール茸と腿肉と内蔵のパートフィロ包み焼き
柿のパッションフルーツ／ヨーグルトシャーベット
栗のパイ包み焼き／栗の花はちみつアイスクリーム
楠田卓也氏ワインセレクト及び説明／ Salon Kusuda
<201002>
やはり此方はとてもいい・・・
秀逸というフレンチは東京にはすさまじく多々であろう。
単に「とてもいい」のだ
地の味わいを残しながらもさわやかな味覚が求められる
首都というもの特有の洗練さ
その洗練のぎりぎりを突くかのような野卑を残す風味付け
風味がきちんとあるのに爽やかに洗練されている
叙情に耽溺した視点だけでは見えてこない味覚
自分にもここまでの味覚があったのかと驚く
今般はフォアグラのムース／トリフ載せから始まり
完全にフザンダージュされたピジョンラミエ（山鳩）
比較的淡泊であっさりしていたが、野卑さを残すソースの妙に感服
シャルキュティエがそばに居るような感覚にもなる
★が多々の店よりも優れた調理に脱帽
今回は２名のみの訪店であった
雪のせいか？？否であろう？？
戯画化されたような単層だけを拡大解釈した★付けには
まさしく辟易するばかりだ
もの凄いとだけ伝えたい
<200912>
ファンである
彼の料理は一種無骨ななかに繊細が極まる
★組のような無理をしない・・・
爽やかに深い出汁があるように思う。
最近のフレンチはスペシャリテだけの訴求
基本は出汁
ベルナール・ロワゾーは食材に付着することを極めに極めた
それも大いに良しとしたいが
それじゃ日本料理には敵うわけがない
適時適当な出汁の感があり大いに驚嘆
丁寧なリエットに毎回美味とつぶやいてしまう
<200708>
オーソドックスに決して外さない料理
若いシェフの奮起を頂く…意外で感動
オーナー川崎氏と初めてさしで飲みながら
昔話をうかがう
フランスでのこと…
彼は８年ほど在パリ私も３年ほど在パリ
時期は偶然にもかぶりきみで話に華が…
その後彼はＮＹ…
完全な午餐である…客は私のみ…
店は変わらず陽光が差込み古さを感じさせない
料理はすでに若いシェフの方々のものとのこと
味が立つタイプの料理で全体に若さを感じる
鯛のマリネ…
ビネガーと塩味が薄く好感
素材の良さが強調され洗練
クスクス…
懐かしすぎる風味でこれもちょい涙目になる
本物のクスクスは乾物独特の腐敗臭がわずか香る
日本ではクスクスがなかなかポピュラーにならないのは
この腐敗臭のせいだが慣れると妙に欲しくなるものだ
帶子（干貝柱）でも同じことがおきる
豚血ソーセージ赤ワイン煮… Boudin Noir
典型的なブルギニオン
冷たくなると固くなり美味しくないと勧められ
温かいうちに一気にいただく
名前どおりの風味で余計な雑味は一切ない
実は元々フランス料理にソーセージはなく
後代にドイツから持ち込まれたもの
料理の品のなかに若い奮起を感じた
まずシャンパン
次は決して高価ではない極上なブルゴーニュ
テストワインと白赤いろいろふるまわれ
２時間半仕事を忘れてしまった
平日の極上午餐とはこういうことをいうのだろうか