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亭主(あるじ)"大羽耕一親方(おほばかういちおやかた)"【掲載許可濟】2021-10撮影
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主人(あるじ)"大羽耕一親方(おほばかういちおやかた)"【掲載許可濟】2021-10撮影
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東道(あるじ)"大羽耕一親方(おほばかういちおやかた)"【掲載許可濟】2021-10撮影
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老板(あるじ)"大羽耕一親方(おほばかういちおやかた)"【掲載許可濟】2021-10撮影
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"服部時計店(はつとりとけいてん、Seiko)"
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"歐米茄(Omega)"+"眞力時(Zenith)"
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"勞力士(Rolex)"
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"積家(Jaeger-LeCoultre)"+"朗格(A.Lange & Söhne)"
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"能書(なうがき)"
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"諸々(もろもろ)"
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"備前焼(びぜん)"
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"菜單(しながき)"
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"菜單(しながき)"
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"茶(ちや)"
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【先付(さきづけ)】、"菽(えだまめ)"
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【先付(さきづけ)】、"金平牛蒡(きんぴらきたきす)"
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【先付(さきづけ)】、"鯡子(かずのこ)"
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【胾(さしみ)】、"甲烏賊(すみいか、=かふいか)"
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【臠(さしみ)】、"鯖(まさば)"
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【刺躬(さしみ)】、"小鰶(こはだ、=このしろのわかうを)"
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【魚軒(さしみ)】、"纜魚十腕(いかげそ)"に"紅葉卸(もみぢおろし)"
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【魥(さしみ)】、"纜魚十腕(いかげそ)"
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【煮物(にもの)】、"星鳗(はかりめ)豆腐皮捲(とうふのうばまき)"
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【煮物(にもの)】、"星鳗(はかりめ)豆腐皮捲(とうふのうばまき)"、配搭(つけあはせ)の"秋葵(おくら)"
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【煮物(にもの)】、"丸茄子(まるなすび)"
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【煮物(にもの)】、"丸茄子(まるなすび)"
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【煮物(にもの)】、"隣席(となり)の"小芋(こいも)"
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【焼物(やきもの)】、"狹眞魚(さまうを)"
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【焼物(やきもの)】、"狹眞魚(さまうを)"
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【焼物(やきもの)】、"酢橘(すだち)"
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【油炸(あげもの)】、"土荳沙拉(ほどサラド)"
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【揚物(あげもの)】、"鴨脚子(ぎんなん)"
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【油炸(あげもの)】、"油炸竹筴魚(あぢフライ)"
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【油炸(あげもの)】、"油炸竹筴魚(あぢフライ)"
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『佐藤養助』牌(じるし)"稻庭饂飩(いなにはうんどん)"
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"胡蔥(あさつき)"+"生薑(くれのはじかみ)"+"巨勝(ごま)"
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"汁(つゆ)"
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"葡萄實(えびかづらのみ)"
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築地(つきぢ)『角山』"麩饅頭(ふまんぢう)"
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築地(つきぢ)『角山』"麩饅頭(ふまんぢう)"、御開帖(ぱかッ©毒さま✨.:*゚:.。:.)
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【家苞(いへつと)】、"手拭(てのごひ)"
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【家苞(いへつと)】、"ばていら"
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【家苞(いへつと)】、"ばていら"
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【家苞(いへつと)】、"鯖鮓(さばずし)"
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【家苞(いへつと)】、"ばていら"、御開帖(ぱかッ©毒さま✨.:*゚:.。:.)
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【家苞(いへつと)】、"ばていら"、斷面(きりくち)
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【家苞(いへつと)】、"生薑(くれのはじかみ)"
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【家苞(いへつと)】、黃瓜(そばうり)の"糠漬(ぬかづけ)"
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久方(ひさかた)ぶり、夜(よる)の銀座(ぎんざ)。
竝木通(なみきどほ)りには、
舶來名牌(なんばんわたりのなだかきしな)、連軒爭甍(のきをつらねいらかをあらそふ)。
就中(わきても)"時辰儀(とけい)"で高名(なだか)きが犇(ひし)めきあふ。
瑞西(スウヰツルランド)"土圭(とけい)"の榮枯盛衰(さかえ・ほろびゆくさま)、
"パテック・フィリップ"、"ロレックス"などを除外(のぞ)くなら、
現今(いま)や、"リシュモン"、"スヲッチ"、"LVNH"など、
巨大資本(おほだな)の軍門(した)に下(くだ)るほか一無方策(てだてなし)。
"ブレゲ"、"オメガ"は"スヲッチ"、"ジャガー・ルクルト"、"IWC"は"リシュモン"、
德國(ドイツ)"ランゲ・ウント・ゼーネ"も"リシュモン"、と云ふ慘狀(ありさま)。
"自社一貫製造(マニュファクチュール)"からして、
"パテック・フィリップ"、"ロレックス"、"ジャガー・ルクルト"など纔(わづ)か。
否(いな)!
それより深刻(ふかくなげかはしき)は、
かゝる高級舶來品(なんばんわたりのねのはるしな)や高額鮓店(ばかたかねのすしや)、
跳梁跋扈(わがものがほにのさばり、あらかせぎしま)くる事實(こと)。
その背景(そびら)にあるは、
この十年來(とゝせほどまへより)の財政金融政策(おかみによるぜにのつかひかた)。
貧富(とめるものとまづしきもの)への兩極分化(なきわかれ)は、
權力中樞(おかみ)にすら、これを危惧(あやぶ)む者(もの)出現(あらはる)ゝほど。
「社會(うきよ)の"數字化(ディジタルくわ)"が進行(すゝむ)に随伴(ともな)ひ、
高級舶來品(なんばんわたりのねのはるしな)や高額鮓店(ばかたかきすしや)どころか、
東瀛(ひのもと)の財貨(たから)が、"GAFAM"に吸引(すひつくさ)れてしまふ。」
と警鐘(はやがね)打鳴(うちな)らす賢者(かしこきひと)も、、。
菟(と)にも角(かく)にも、
銀座(ぎんざ)は扶桑(あきつしま)の象徴(しるし)であり、
現社會(うつしよ)の"光(ひかり)"と"闇(やみ)"、ともに映(うつ)す鏡(かゞみ)。
その一角(ひとすみ)に當家(こちら)『大羽』は存在(あり)。
肆内(なか)には一癖(ひとくせ)二癖(ふたくせ)ありげな"主人(あるじ)"。
昭和二十二丁亥歳(せうわにじふにひのとゐどし、=1947)、
信州伊那(しなのゝくにいな)に生(むまれ)、
『中嶋』の廚藝(わざ)を繼承(うけつ)ぐ親方(おやかた)に師事(ならひし)とか。
その後(のち)、京師(みやこ)にて研鑽(うでをみが)き、
銀座(ぎんざ)にて創業(あきなひをはじむ)。
傍(かたは)らにて能(よく)彼(かれ)を鋪佐(たす)くるは"御内儀(おかみ)"。
正鵠(まさ)に、「夫唱婦隨(ふしやうふずい)」、「比翼連理(ひよくれんり)」。
最上(いとよ)き"酒肆(さけのますいちくら)"、"割烹料理店(きりさきにたてのみせ)"。
同席(ちかくにおは)す"味神樣(あぢがみさま)"の辭(ことば)を借用(か)るなら、
「美食家(うまきものくひつくしたるもの)が終着點(ゆきつくさき)。」
なるほど、的確無比(いひえてたへなり)。
"菜譜(こんだて)"は廚房(くりや)なる"亭主(あるじ)"の背後(そびら)。
【胾(さしみ)】、【煮物(にもの)】、【燒物(やきもの)】、【揚物(あげもの)】、
【醋醃(すのもの)】、、なる流(なが)れなるべし。
その他(ほか)には〆として【飯(めし)】の等類(たぐひ)などなど。
劈頭(いやさき)に【先附(さきづけ)】。
"菽(えだまめ)"に"金平牛蒡(きんぴらうまふゞき)"、"鯡子(かずのこ)"。
何(いづ)れ不劣(おとらぬ)逸品(すぐれもの)なれど、
就中(わきても)、"金平牛蒡(きんぴらきたきす)"に颳目(まなこけづら)る。
豫(あらかじ)め"蒟蒻絲(しらたき)"を"乾煎(からいり)"し、
食感(はごたへ・したざはり)を高(たか)め、
"牛蒡(うまふゞき)"、"胡蘿蔔(せりにんじん)"、"巨勝(ごま)"に合(あ)はす。
不濃不淡(こからずうすきにすぎ)ぬ"調劑(あぢつけ)"も適切(ほどよし)。
【胾(さしみ)】として、
"甲烏賊(すみいか)"、"鯖(まさば)"、"小鰶(こはだ)"を選擇(えらむ)。
三種(みくさ)が三種(みくさ)、揃(そろ)ひも揃(そろ)ひて最上級(いとよきしな)。
仕入先(しいれさき)は有名鮓店(なのあるすしや)と同一(おな)じ仲卸(なかおろし)。
"醋醃(すじめ)"の程度(ほど)を吟味(み)るに、
强(つよ)きに過(す)ぎず、さりとて、葷(なまぐさ)ゝの皆無(かけらもなし)。
"小鰶(このしろのわかうを)"など、『小笹壽し』の"それ"を髣髴(おもはす)。
"山蓼(わさび)"を頻繁(こまめ)に擂(おろ)すも吉(よき)。
【煮物(にもの)】の"星鳗腐皮捲(はかりめのうばまき)"にも絶句(ことばをうしなふ)。
"鹹(しほけ)"、"甜(あまみ)"、"旨味(うまみ)"、
"溏油(だし)"に"星鳗(はかりめ)"と"豆腐皮(とうふのうば)"が協調(あはさり)、
寔(まこと)に華美(よきあぢ)。
扨(さて)、【燒物(やきもの)】:
"狹眞魚(さまうを)"需(もと)め、霎時(しばし)完成(やきあがり)を俟(ま)つ。
軈而(やがて)、眼前(めのまへ)に"註文品(くだんのしな)"。
時季(とき)を外(はず)した所爲歟(せゐか)?、半點(いさゝか)痩身(やせぎす)。
加旃(しかのみならず)、
"膓(はらわた)"が除去(ぬきさ)られ、慘憺(なげかはし)き光景(ありさま)に、、。
愚按(やつがれおもふに)、
かゝるもの、『星乃』の"それ"の如(ごと)き素朴(そぼく)なるものが吉(よい)。
【揚物(あげもの)】として、"鴨脚子(ぎんなん)"+"油炸竹筴魚(あぢフライ)"。
何(なん)の因果(いんぐわ、まへのよからつらなるさけがたきつながり)歟(か)?
『星乃』でも、"鴨脚子(ぎんなん)"+"油炸鮮蠔(かきフライ)"。
而(しか)も、食後(めしのあと)には"葡萄實(えびかづらのみ)"まで。
掉尾(いやはて)に築地(つきぢ)『角山』の"麩饅頭(ふまんぢう)"。
これが亦(また)、眞言(まこと)に鮮美(よきあぢ)。
塲所(ところ)が塲所(ところ)故(ゆゑ)、居酒屋(のみや)より高價(たかね)なれど、
適正價格(ほどよきねづけ)なるべし。
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【暗匣】:富士膠片(Fujifilm)X-T4 無反光鏡可換鏡頭照相機(みらーれす)
【鏡珠】:銘匠光學 TTArtisan 1.4/35 @F1.8~F4
Voigtlaender Ultra Wide-Heliar 5.6/12 Asph. VM III @F8~F11
安徽長庚光學(Venus Optics)老蛙(LAOWA)2.8/9 ZERO-D @F8